Massarelos House

Porto is a city for explorers where you can spend entire days drifting around, marveling at historic facades, and taking in the dilapidated beauty of the place. A small architectural wonder seems to await around every corner. There’s such a variety of great restaurants on offer with creative concepts so vast that it can be difficult to decide where to eat. The city’s long tradition of ceramics is evident in the churches, houses, and São Bento train station that are all decorated with colorful azulejos. This continues in the four buildings of Massarelos House, located between the Rio Douro, the gardens of the Palácio de Cristal, and the Museu Romântico. Accommodating 15 vacation apartments, they’re furnished with colorful carpets, antiques, wooden floors, designer wallpaper, and an abundance of art. All of them are named after ceramic factories that long shaped the industry and display works from the respective manufacturers. Owner Jesús Moraime saved the vacant 19th-century houses from decay and transformed them into a retreat where guests can relax after exploring the city. The best place to do this is in the three-tier garden, planted with ferns and pipevines, leading down the slope to the river—the perfect sanctuary for reading among the orange and laurel trees or under the pergola overlooking the street and the water. However, on hot days, nothing beats the experience of sitting in the cool water of the pool, artfully decorated with ceramic tiles, listening to the birds chirping and looking forward to the next day in Portugal’s secret capital.

WHAT WE LIKE MOST:

• The fusion of traditional architecture with winding staircases, wooden floors, and characteristic skylights with modern elements such as clean lines, steel, and glass
• Massarelos House showcases two collections, one for contemporary art and one for ceramics produced in Porto since the 18th century. Each of the apartments also features special pieces.
• The corridors connecting the stairs and elevator to the rooms overlook the green courtyard. They display the works of various artists and tell the story of the city and the house.
• There’s a common room on each floor: The glazed pergola in the entrance area, which looks like a greenhouse, the covered living room facing the garden, and the terrace between the second and third floors.
• The view from the roof terrace of the Ponte da Arrábida and the gardens of the Palácio de Cristal, which is all the more enjoyable when combined with a Porto Tonic
• The enthusiasm of the owner, Jesús Moraime, for northern Portugal, which is palpable everywhere and absolutely contagious. He was inspired by his own family, who came here every year to spend their summer holidays.
• The beautifully planted garden in its original terraced structure. On the lower level is a small pond—an enchanted place where you can relax in the shade of the maple tree.
• The hosts are so knowledgeable about Porto’s restaurant scene and enjoy sharing their local tips with guests.
• The quiet location in the Massarelos district, away from the hustle and bustle of the center, but only a 15-minute walk from some of the most famous sites: The old town of Ribeira, historic monuments, and other architectural highlights. There’s also a lively young art, design, and fashion scene to discover in the immediate vicinity.
• You only have to hop on the tram or bike to go swimming in the Atlantic. Excursions to the Douro Valley, one of the oldest wine regions in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, or to the Peneda-Gerês National Park near the Spanish border are also worth a trip.

GOOD TO KNOW:

• Four buildings surrounding the inner courtyard house 15 one- and two-room apartments for two to six people, some of which have two floors. Many of them have a terrace or balcony.
• This is a child-friendly place: Children up to 6 years stay free of charge. The spacious dwellings offer plenty of room, and two of the duplex apartments have mezzanine floors for children. Baby beds are available on request at no extra charge, and the garden offers a safe, enclosed space.
• Each apartment has a fully equipped kitchen.
• A delicious breakfast of fresh bread, yogurt with fruit, jam, fruit juices, homemade cakes, cheese, and ham is delivered directly to your door.
• There are deliberately no televisions in the accommodations, but if you need one, you can specify this when booking and it will be provided at no additional cost.
• At the reception, guests will find a map of Porto, highlighting not only the sights but also the ceramics factories, faience collections, and azulejos facades waiting to be discovered in the city.
• Leaving your car behind is a good idea in Porto’s winding streets. The hosts can provide tips on nearby parking garages; the tram station is also only two minutes away.
• Massarelos House has a very charming sister property that’s also highly recommended for a visit to Portugal: The Baixa House apartment building in Lisbon.