BnB, Farmstay, Holiday apartment, Italy, Tuscany

Kaikna

At Kaikna, you can start the day with a slice of bread you’ve baked yourself. A proofing basket and a cast-iron pot are ready and waiting in the kitchens, and sourdough starter and flour are available on request. That has everything to do with the host, Emeline. For many years, Emeline herself was unable to enjoy bread or pizza, that is until she met baker Davide Longoni in Milan in 2015, who introduced her to sourdough and heirloom wheat varieties. She hasn’t let go of the subject since. Today, she runs a small pizzeria of her own, the Pizza Farm. Emeline grew up in a small village in the French Alps and originally came to Italy to design restaurants. While kitesurfing, she met Jarno, a numbers guy from the Milan area with a soft spot for the sea and good food. They both wanted to move to the countryside one day and live closer to nature. They finally found the perfect spot near Montescudaio on the Etruscan Coast—an 18th-century farmstead a kilometer and a half down a gravel road. They borrowed the name Kaikna from the nearby Cecina River—that’s what it was called in Etruscan times. The couple did much of the renovation work themselves. Emeline laid bricks, painted, and furnished the space. They uncovered openings that had been bricked up and took down walls that had been added later. For Emeline, the renovation was also a chance to piece together the house’s past. What had it once looked like? Today the upper floor holds the two vacation apartments, Veliuno and Velies, each with its own staircase and a rooftop terrace of about 50 square meters. Furniture and accessories in sage green, blue, and natural tones add color to the bright apartments with their varnished wooden beams and exposed brick arches. The estate includes eleven hectares of land with a wheat field, olive trees, and an orchard. Closer to the house, agaves and grasses grow in the gravel, and there is also a small pool. Montescudaio sits atop the hill, a four-minute drive away, and from its ancient castle walls, the view stretches all the way to the sea and the offshore islands. On evenings when the Pizza Farm is open, small sourdough pizzas meant for sharing are served. Guests sit together, take a slice, and gaze out at the field where the grain for the crust was grown.

WHAT WE LIKE MOST:

How much of Emeline and Jarno you can see in this place. Their ideas about home, food, and life in the countryside come together here, and they did much of the work themselves.
The light wooden beams and exposed brick floors go well with the furniture in sage green, blue, and natural tones in both apartments.
From the first cup of coffee to the last glance at the sky – you could happily spend much of your stay on the spacious rooftop terraces.
If you like to cook, you’ll find a few thoughtful extras in the kitchen, including a bread-baking kit, a Japanese kitchen knife, and a Chemex for pour-over coffee.
Sleep in and have breakfast on your own terrace. The hosts will put together a breakfast basket upon request.
There are occasional workshops if you’d like to try baking with sourdough or learn about edible wild plants. Sometimes there are bread-baking classes for children, too.
In winter, people gather around the big table for meals put together with local chefs and wineries.
The garden, with its fruit trees and vegetable beds, provides much of the produce for the farm kitchen.
Head out to the garden at sunset—with an aperitif basket that can be ordered from the hosts.

GOOD TO KNOW:

Casa Veliuno is 80 square meters and accommodates up to four people. There are two bedrooms. The two single beds in the second room can be joined to form a large double bed upon request. The rooftop terrace is accessible via the kitchen.
Casa Velies is 70 square meters and, with an additional single bed available upon request, accommodates up to five people. It also has two bedrooms and direct access to the rooftop terrace.
Breakfast and aperitif baskets are prepared upon request. Bicycle rentals, horseback riding excursions, and truffle hunts can also be arranged.
There is a Finnish-style hot tub, which can be heated in winter upon request.
The property is located outside Montescudaio. The last 1.5 kilometers are on an unpaved road. A car is handy for shopping and day trips.
Montescudaio is worth a visit for a stroll through its narrow streets and the view from the old fortifications all the way to the sea. Marina di Cecina and Marina di Bibbona are great for days at the beach, while the coastal pine forests are perfect for walks.
Book ahead if you’d like to have dinner at the Pizza Farm.
Workshops and special offers are available from time to time.
The nearest airport is Pisa, about an hour’s drive away. From Florence Airport, it takes about an hour and 40 minutes by car. It’s also possible to travel by train, but a car is recommended.